Tag Archives: STOUT

Finished Projects: New and Old

0315 Collage

Life, man. It gets away from a person.

I just HAD to share a new dress that I made for my birthday Valentines Day the upcoming Joanna Newsom concert (March 29!!). I have some other projects that I have not yet shared in cyberspace, so let’s get reacquainted!

0315 6397 Collage.jpg

Pattern: vintage Simplicity 6397
Fabrics: Raw & kimono silks from etsy; lining, Robert Kaufman Radiance

My 30th birthday was in December and I was toooootally confident I could finish this dress in time for my cocktail hour, which happened to be occurring in…two days. Can’t say I’m proud of rushing through one of the rare times I make myself a SILK DRESS. In the end, I had to wear another ensemble but REALLY HERE, I had cocktails to drink so whatever.

Plus, it has a cape-like thing on the back and that makes up for any mistakes. Such as, the not-great yoke attachment:

0315 6397 Simplicity Sad yoke

I’ve pressed it a few more times so it’s getting there, but for now, most people’s point of view will be here:

0315 6397 Simplicity Front

Not too bad, Brad. It also helps that the front doesn’t matter much, look at this BACK:

0315 6397 Simplicity Back

[of the dress]

Not my most creative work as far as deviating from the pattern illustration. Try to guess which version I made:

0315 6397 Simplicity

I wanted to add some contrast, so I lined the inside of what I’ll call the cape-doublet (Frenchified!) with a gray kimono silk print that is just so delicate and lovely, I had to work up the courage to use even the small bits for this.

0315 6397 Simplicity Inside cape

Worth it!

The pattern had the cape just dangling in the wind, and I thought that was just asking for embarrassment (let’s say, a gust of wind throwing it into someone’s face. Most likely mine and yes I think about these things). I decided I’d cut the dress a few inches shorter than the cape and baste the ends to the raw hem of the dress. I cut out a lining with the front and back pieces, a few inches shorter than the dress. Attaching the lining along the hemline and basting the necklines together, the hem was lifted into place and the cape curved around it. It makes just a hint of a bubble hem and just a fun photo opportunity!

0315 6397 Simplicity lining

To keep with the no-hem theme, I cut out a mirror-image sleeve and folded it over into a double-layer that I basted as one piece. In all likelihood, I’ll be very overdressed at the concert as Seattleites tend to wear North Face and jeans everywhere. But I like being overdressed, so I CAN’T WAIT.

05 May11 NEXT

0315 1887 Simplicity collage

Pattern: Simplicity 1887
Fabric: vintage from a garage sale

I finished this last October or November when I was still working on my STOUT projects. I assume I never blogged about this one because…well it’s a skirt. It was easy, it has elastic, it has pockets and an attached tie belt. There.

I worked some pattern-mixing in. Both fabrics are very polyester stretch wovens, making them perfect for skirts (only way to keep things breathing).

0315 1887 Simplicity pocket

I love the elastic panel across the back. The pattern includes options for pants and shorts, getting me closer to having the confidence to attempt pants or shorts again. Beginners: GET ON THIS PATTERN. You can do it!

0315 1887 Simplicity Back

0315 1887 Simiplicity skirt

05 May11 NEXT

0315 Mary Jane booties collage

Pattern: Mary Jane Baby Booties via Red Heart
Yarn: Pure Silk by Debbie Bliss in Purple and some 100% cotton yarn

I wish I had counted how many baby booties I’ve made in the last year. This is the only pair I crocheted. I’m currently on a shopping fast and am challenging myself to use what I already own instead of buying everything I think I need. I’m a firm believer that constraints make me more creative. But it doesn’t necessarily make things easier.

I almost went out and bought some new yarn, thinking I didn’t have anything that would work. I searched through my bits and pieces drawer (DIFFERENT from my yarn drawer!) and found these forgotten-about skeins: one is 100% cotton and the other is 100% silk. YES THAT BABY DESERVES SILK ON HER FEETS. I think the colors look great together and are not a combination that I would usually choose. See? More creative already.

There’s a sweet little Wednesday Addams-style dress I’m working on next. And about four saved drafts that I want to post. I suppose that means I’m back on blogging! Later!

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Finished Project: My First Time With Colette

08 Aug3 moneta collage

Pattern: Colette Moneta
Fabric: from Paris

My first Colette pattern! Considering I wrote a guest post on the Colette blog before ever having completed one of their designs, I’d say it’s about time.

I can see why people like them so much! Easy pattern, clear instructions, cute results! I needed a low-risk pattern for this luscious jersey knit I bought back in 2006 while I was studying in Paris, giving it sentimental value. I had juuuuust enough yardage (er… pardon, métrage) to cut out the Moneta, so any f-ups and I’d be an inconsolable heap on the floor.08 Aug3 ampersandBut I found success! I lengthened the waist by about an inch and took a bit out of each armhole and it fits like a glove. I might have been able to finish the entire thing in a weekend, but with the 90-degree days we’ve been having in Seattle, I can only handle so much time in my hot sewing room. 08 Aug3 backDid the collar call for a 3/8″ seam allowance? I used the usual 5/8″ and it turned out a bit narrow, requiring occasional adjustment to keep it looking flat and neat. NBD.
08 Aug3 collarback08 Aug3 collarfront08 Aug3 frontI was hoping to learn how to use a double needle for the hem, but for the life of me, I could not get it to look right. Take a look at my practice scrap…08 Aug3 double needleIf it looks like nothing but a jumbled mess to you, exactly. I changed the bobbin tension, upper thread tension, stitch length, pressure foot pressure and could not get that god damn tunneling effect to flatten out, no matter how many tutorials I went through. Almost every one mentioned the zigzag stitch as an alternative, with the caveat that it would make my garment “look handmade.” Why are we serious crafters so worried about our handmade items looking handmade? I USED A ZIGZAG AND MY DRESS LOOKS GREAT!08 Aug3 hemdecorated

Finished Project: Dot Dress + An Announcement

jonnieannaliese

This post has been sponsored by my very own (and very new) etsy shop! Find me at jonnieannaliese.etsy.com

After god knows how many cumulative years of experience making things with my hands, I am now FINALLY trying to capitalize on my “gifts.” JK– working this new seamstress job over at Wai-Ching has invigorated my creativity. I’ve feared that turning what I love into a job would make me start to hate what I love and really the opposite has happened. So I welcome you to my little etsy shop: JonnieAnnaliese. I’ll keep adding items about as haphazardly as I post to this blog. Please use ANNASFRIENDS for a 10% discount!

/shameless self promotion over

06 June4 backtothegoodpart

06 June4 dresscollage

Pattern: Vintage McCalls 3589
Fabric: Fabric.com

Here is my first finished project to be created under my previously invented STOUT tag (Sewing Things Only Using Tractables). As I start blossoming into a shacked up 30-year-old, I blossom into my midlife body as well. So I’m trying to spend the next few projects focusing on elastic waistlines, drawstrings, roomy ensembles, etc. that can follow me anywhere! Because what else am I going to do– cut down on beer? AHAHAHAHAHHHHAAAAAA YOU DON’T KNOW ME AT ALL

Anyway, this is a lovely buttery soft jersey from my last Fabric.com binge. I made the dress for a very stylish wedding I attended in LA a few weeks ago for a very stylish friend from grad school at a very stylish brewery in Glendale, where many guests consisted of stylish creatives so I really felt the best look I could hope for is “fits and is comfortable.” Luckily, in more casual situations, I can definitely pass for stylish. Or, with the right stilettos, a well-educated suburban principal on her way to church. I haven’t stopped creating dress personas since I finished The Secret Lives of Dresses.

Construction could not have been easier. The fraternal twin pieces of the lining and the fabric are sewn together for the elastic casing (no need for silly fabric casings!). I realize details aren’t easily seen through the lens of a blog, but the reason I think this is a STOUT staple is because the casing is placed low on the dress so you can hike it up to where it sits comfortably on you and the bodice will drape over the casing to conceal the elastic. Nice touch, McCalls!

06 June4 waistcollage

I use my serger  on knits as much as I can since I don’t like the stretch stitches on my regular machine, but the hem is hand sewn. For anyone interested in sewing with knits, this would make a great beginner pattern.

The tricky part was my original idea to add pockets. Now I have to file it away in my sewing memory database that slippery knits make slippery pockets. The pockets were a constant burden as they were never really IN the dress and would often fall out with my hand. Maybe it’s the dark taupe color of the fabric or the way I just described it but, there was something about the pockets that reminds one of certain gratuitously ill-lighted anatomy slides.

06 June4 pocketcollage

I just didn’t want to have to keep adjusting a sloppy pocket on each hip. What girl would?

You can see my new pocket-free confidence shine through.

06 June4 dress frontOn a final note, I just love to include little tidbits about my photographer/stylist/muse/stinkface. A few months ago, on the way to something or other, Emily wondered out loud When am I going to see some snails? As night fell and we were walking home, I said “Maybe you’ll see a sna—” CRUNCH. Emily hadn’t exactly seen it, but instead can say she’s stepped on a snail. Which is something I cannot allege. After taking this post’s photos (ON LOCATION OUTSIDE MY APARTMENT BUILDING), I saw a snail in the garden and Emily yelled “SHOW ME WHERE IT IS” before she would walk through so she didn’t step on it. He survived.

06 June4 Emilys snailAnd has a new best friend!

06 June4 Emily snailThat girl amuses me. Tatas for now!

Finished Projects: Sewing and Weight Gain

Before I get started, I want to let y’all know I recently did a tongue-in-cheek guest post titled How to Prevent DIY Anxiety for Coletterie. Welcome, new readers! And thanks to Sarai for taking a chance on a little-known vanity blogger. I’ll let the conversation on that piece continue on Coletterie because today I wanted to talk about the chubs.02 Feb22 Callingallchubbies I feel so cliché when I talk about my weight. I also find it next to impossible to actually just talk about my weight without advice, reiterated diet myths, or being told I’m not fat as if that was all I was looking for (I realize it’s well-intentioned). It is of course, not the end of life as I know it. I realize I’m still the person I am, no matter what size. I’m also not a lazy public health crisis. I don’t feel unattractive to my partner or ugly. I do admit being humbled when, as a thinner person, I extolled the virtues of confident double-digit-sized women, and then find myself thinking too long and too hard about that unflattering angle a photo caught me in. To be honest, I knew it was coming and I’m not interested in trying to stop the tide. I’m perfectly happy with my life and I’m not going to waste my time counting calories and running on a boring-ass treadmill. I already tried that anyway and I hated it far more than I hated finding another dress I was unable to zip. It’s just a fucking dress, now hand me a scotch and some chips.

02 Feb22 DesignedforchubbiesThat being said, I feel like I’ve developed a strange deterrent from starting a new sewing project. Why spend the time, energy, and (already spent) money on a new dress, only to outgrow it after only a few wears? Which seems very counterintuitive at first. Sewing is supposed to be a way for a person to create clothing for an individual shape. So surely, I hold an advantage as a sewist in that I don’t find myself sized out of some brand that doesn’t believe in the mythical being called the Size Twelve. But, mind blown, no matter how great my hand-hemmed, fit-adjusted-three-times, waist-nipping dress fit over the months I was creating it, after a year and a few more pounds, it no longer fits. Now, I have to not only think about the fit in the present, but also the fit a hypothetical twenty pounds from now. My usual hourglass style doesn’t work so well without the hourglass shape.

At the same time, though, I’m surprised at how much of a relief it is. Like I said, I knew Getting Fat was my genetic and/or cultural destiny and now that I’m no longer delaying the inevitable, it’s actually a little freeing. Like I’ve spent the last fifteen years as a fat wolf in a thin sheep’s clothing (yes, I was the Fat Friend, and no, I am not getting into that on the Internet). So now I’m a chubster and I’m still happy. Happier. And I secretly feel like a badass when I wear something I “shouldn’t” and don’t make any excuses for it. I imagine all the times I pointed out flaws in myself for doing things like Sitting While Wearing Pants and try to imagine what I thought would happen if I didn’t say anything. Did I expect someone to say it for me? Wouldn’t that make the Fat Fink the jerk? Hyperbole aside, others are fatter than me and others are thinner than me, so who cares? My weight is my business.

But, with this new-found fat awakening, I still care about comfort. So bring on the elastic waists! In fact, I’m planning on spending 2015 Sewing Things Only Using Tractables (new tag: STOUT). I might need to work on that acronym. But I’m trying to be more open to seeing the potential in the non-fitted.

Beginning with…

03 Mar16 skirt collage

Pattern: McCalls 3817 from EJVintageAvenue via etsy
Fabric: Garage sale (print) & B. Black & Sons (solid wool)

If you ask me, this is a prime example of look-at-the-technical-drawing-not-the-illustration. Look at that envelope! It looks like a fever dream set in an 80’s office!

03 Mar16 skirt patternBut there was something about the pencil skirt and the black a-line skirt that caught my eye. Pencil skirts have always been uncomfortable to me, but I can’t resist the sexy secretary look. A pencil skirt with stretchy sides, though? In a print to take the edge off the elastic waist? BOOM

03 Mar16 skirt side comparison

No zipper necessary, making this an excellent beginner pattern. PLUS, only one yard of 60″ wide fabric. The print fabric has a bit of a stretch, which also helps the comfort quotient. Can’t get enough of this skirt!

Bonus points, it’s the skirt version of a hat I made for my dad.

The pattern includes a kick-pleat in the back, but I decided to sew it up “for that streamlined look” (don’t know why that requires quotes, but it felt right).

03 Mar16 skirt backLooking at these pictures, you can see exactly on the seam where I decided “Screw the kickpleats!” so I might go back and readjust the back seams to make it a little more consistent (that’s not being perfectionist, right? Just detailed?). My S.O. assisted me in the photography for this post and of course, as I’m looking through the images, I come across this number:

03 Mar16 butt

I get the help I ask for.

Anyway, I’m looking forward to making the a-line version. Highly recommend! It’s just about as comfy as a new set of slippers…

Not much more to say here than what I said the first time I made these. I do have to say the marled look was not the original plan and instead a happy result of Shopping My Stuff. Didn’t quite have enough of any one yarn to knit these and used two instead. I’m loving my new (relatively) frugal self.

Since I’ve never been good at conclusions, especially when I start writing about something as personal and contentious as weight, I’ll simply offer a St. Paddy’s Day toast: To a cozy STOUT year!